Q. What sort of substrates can I print on using inkAID?

A. Using the inkAID products, you can print on almost anything! Some popular substrates include fine art and handmade papers, metals like aluminum and copper, film, wood veneer,leather, plastic, and glass. If it will fit through your printer, you can print on it!

Q. Do you offer free samples?

A. We do not distribute free samples of specific products; however, a sample set of inkAID precoats are available for purchase. The inkAID Sample Set includes one 4 oz. bottle of each of the following products: inkAID White Matte, inkAID Clear Semi-Gloss, inkAID Clear Gloss, inkAID Clear Gloss Type II, inkAID Adhesive, and inkAID Iridescent Gold precoats. Generally, a 4 oz. bottle contains enough precoat to prepare three to four sheets of 8.5” x 11” paper. The inkAID Sample Set costs US$28.00, including shipping within the continental United States. Additional charges will apply if the sample set is being shipped to Alaska, Hawaii, or international destinations, including Canada. Please contact us for shipping costs to these locations before placing your order.

Q. What is the shelf life of the inkAID products?

A. Whether opened or unopened, we recommend using products within a year of being purchased.

Q. What is the best way to store the products?

A. All inkAID precoats should be stored in a cool, dry place. Some people choose to refrigerate the precoats, but do NOT freeze them or the products won’t be useable. Be sure to mix the precoats well before using, especially the White Matte Precoat, Clear Semi-Gloss Precoat, and all the Iridescent Precoats. Always stir to mix the precoats, never shake the bottles; doing so will incorporate air bubbles that may dry on your substrate and disrupt the smoothness of the final coat.

Q. Do inkAID products have an effect on the archival properties of a print?

A. A simple answer to that question would be: no, not generally. inkAID precoats contain no optical brighteners and are acid free and pH neutral, two factors that can have an effect on archival properties. In any print, it’s going to be the ink that is the weakest link, and inkAID has no effect on the lasting power of inks. If you’re still concerned about archival properties, we suggest you create a set of side-by-side prints, one using inkAID and your substrate/ink combination and one using ink and media that has been tested. Place both in a southern facing window for several months, then compare. In one test like this using Epson 9500 Ultrachrome Inks, there was no visible fading after one year in the sun.

Q. What kind of coverage (in square feet) can I expect from the inkAID precoats using either a sponge brush or an HLVP spray gun?

A. You can anticipate coverage of about 250 square feet per gallon. Keep in mind, though, that this number can vary greatly depending on your applicator, technique, and the substrate you’re applying the precoat to. A sheet of handmade paper with no sizing is far more porous and will absorb much more coating than a sheet of aluminum of the same size. Also remember that it’s recommended to apply two coats of inkAID precoat to any given substrate to ensure adequate coverage.

Q. Do the clear inkAID precoats dry absolutely clear?

A. Yes they do. The inkAID Clear Gloss and Clear-Gloss Type II precoats will dry absolutely clear. Clear Semi-Gloss dries with a slight transluncency to the coating.

Q. Where should I look for the Material Safety Data Sheets?

A. An MSDS for each of our products can be found on the website, linked from the Products page.

Q. Do you offer any educational discounts?

A. At this time, we do not offer educational discounts.

Q. Do you accept purchase orders?

A. Yes, we accept government orders, institutional orders, and purchase orders. Please fax your P.O. to Jim Kedenburg’s attention at 315-782-7771.

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B. Compatibility

Q. What printers are compatible with inkAID coated media?

A. inkAID products are designed to be used with inkjet printers only; no laser printers. That being said, any inkjet printer using dye or pigment-based inks can be used. There are a couple of technical details regarding printers that artists using inkAID need to be aware of: cartridge head clearance is of utmost importance – you risk damaging your printer if you try to feed media thicker than the cartridge head clearance. Pizza wheels are another concern – some printer models have wheels that run across the top of the substrate after printing; these are called “pizza wheels”. Media coated with inkAID White Matte precoat won’t have a problem with pizza wheels, as the ink dries on contact. If you’ve coated your substrate with a clear inkAID product (inkAID Clear Semi-Gloss, Clear Gloss, or Clear Gloss Type II), however, the ink will not dry quickly enough and the pizza wheels will drag through it, creating unwanted lines on your image. It is possible to remove the pizza wheels from your printer, but be aware that doing so usually voids the warranty.

Q. Do you offer printer profiles for inkAID products?

A. We do not provide profiles, as applications using inkAID are so varied. To ensure proper color management, each substrate created with inkAID should have its own profile run, and to assist our customers with this, we have partnered with Booksmart Studio in Rochester, NY. Booksmart Studios offers a custom profiling service for ink-jet coated substrates. Please visit their website, www.booksmartstudio.com, for more information about this service.

Q. Do inkAID coatings provide the equivalent of commercially available pre-coated paper or canvas?

A. Yes, they do. inkAID White Matte precoat produces a surface extremely similar to commercially pre-coated matte or flat white canvases and paper. The inkAID clear precoats (inkAID Clear Semi-Gloss, Clear Gloss, and Clear Gloss Type II) will produce a shiny surface, much like commercially available semi-gloss or gloss finish papers and stretch canvases. If you’re interested in products pre-coated with the inkAID coatings, we offer pre-coated canvases and Japanese rice papers.

Q. Which Epson Ultrachrome inks are most compatible with inkAID products?

A. Both matte and photo black Epson Ultrachrome inks work well. With the clear inkAID products (Clear Semi-Gloss, Clear Gloss, and Clear Gloss Type II), artists sometimes prefer to use the photo black ink.

Q. Are inkAID products known to react adversely to paper sizing agents such as Hercules ‘Aquapel’ polyvinyl acetate (PVA), sodium carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), rice starch, wheat starch, or to additives such as titanium dioxide (like Liquitex acrylic gesso) and calcium carbonate?

A. No. The materials mentioned are common “papermaking” materials, and as inkAID is regularly used with paper, the ingredients in the coatings will not react with them.

Q. Will encaustic wax adhere to inkAID coated surfaces?

A. Yes, encaustic wax adheres well to substrates coated with any of the inkAID products.

Q. Do the inkAID coatings react favorably when used over acrylic grounds?

A. Yes. There is no problem using any of the inkAID coatings over an acrylic ground.

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C. Application

I. General

Q. How do I apply inkAID?

A. The simplest and most commonly used way to apply inkAID coatings is by using a black foam brush available in most hardware stores. It will apply the coating evenly and without leaving streaks. If you use a foam brush, we generally recommend applying two coats. Apply the first layer to your substrate, brushing in a single direction. Air dry the substrate overnight and apply a second coat, brushing in a perpendicular direction. Let the substrate dry again overnight, and ensure that it’s completely flat before printing (see below for suggestions on flattening your substrate). Other ways to apply inkAID are with a stainless steel coating rod, a more costly but faster and more exact method of application, or with a spray gun. If you choose this method, an HLVP (high volume, low pressure) sprayer such as the Campbell Hausfeld HV3000 is recommended. Good results have also been obtained by using a Paasche VLS Airbrush with the No. 5 tip and 50 lbs. of pressure. The inkAID coatings can be diluted with 10% distilled water to aid in spraying. This is a very exact method of application which will yield a coating layer that isn’t visible or felt on the surface of the substrate.

Q. How should I clean up after using inkAID?
A. All inkAID products are water soluble and can be cleaned off of brushes and hands (before they dry) using soapy water. After the coatings have dried, inkAID Clear Semi-Gloss, Clear Gloss, Clear Gloss Type II, and Iridescent precoats will wash off with hot water, soap, and some elbow grease. inkAID White Matte and Adhesive precoats cannot be cleaned with water once they have dried, and need a solvent-based cleaner. If you spill these coatings on surfaces, clothing, or your skin, be sure to rinse off immediately.

A. Because uses for the inkAID products are so varied, there’s no simple answer to that question. Creating your own substrate can be as simple as coating a piece of handmade paper with inkAID Clear Semi-Gloss precoat, and as complicated as creating a “skin” using inkAID White Matte and Iridescent Blue precoats. Your own creativity will be your only limitation! For ideas, however, there are a tremendous number of resources available. Books, instructional DVD’s, workshops, websites blogs, even youtube.com spots have all been created to provide information about the various techniques utilizing inkAID that have been developed. Please visit the “Resources” section for a listing of these.

Q. I’ve coated a thin, porous substrate (like paper) with inkAID, and as it dried, it became warped and doesn’t lay flat. How can I fix this?
A. This is a common problem, and fortunately has a pretty simple solution. The reason that the paper (or other substrate) becomes wavy or warped as it dries has to do with the uneven absorption of inkAID. Especially in handmade paper, where fiber concentration differs throughout the sheet, the water in the inkAID coating isn’t absorbed evenly by the paper, and the result is that the paper warps as it dries. To prevent this from happening, hang the paper from a thin wire (using metal clips or clothespins) after coating, allowing gravity to pull down and keep it flat as it dries. You can also use secure metal clips to the bottom of the hanging paper to add some more weight. If the paper is still warped after it’s been coated twice and completely dried, you can press it flat underneath a heavy weight (like several large books) overnight; this should get rid of the last of the warps. It’s important that the paper lay completely flat before printing to avoid headstrikes by the ink cartridges.

Q. Can I apply inkAID on top of a painting and print on it?
A. Certainly! You can use inkAID over any water-based media, but be advised that it may require fixing first. We don’t recommend using inkAID on top of oil or other solvent based media, however, as the solvent will destroy the inkAID.

Q. What do I need to know about post-coating images made using inkAID?
A. Post-coating is generally recommended to protect your finished images from water damage, fading, airborne contaminants, and fingerprints; however, different coatings have different post-coating requirements. If you’ve used the inkAID Clear Semi-Gloss, Clear Gloss, Clear Gloss Type II, or Iridescent precoats, a water-based product might move the inks around, so you’ll need to use a solvent-based topcoat like Krylon Crystal Clear spray or Golden MSA Varnish. inkAID White Matte precoat contains calcium carbonate and can be damaged by the solvents found in products like Golden MSA Varnish. The solvents in these products can dissolve the binder in the dried precoat and cause the appearance of streaks or dust, which sometimes may not appear for months afterward. To avoid this, try using products like Golden Polymer Varnish or ClearShield Type C liquid laminate as a post-coat.

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II. Metal

Q.What kind of metal is best to print on using inkAID?

A.Aluminum is generally the best for most printers because it’s lightweight and comes in a variety of thicknesses and finishes. A good thickness for most printers is .024 gauge, but using metal of this thickness requires that a printer has a straight through path. Aluminum can be bought from Home Depot or Lowes with a “mill” finish, meaning it came straight from the mill and hasn’t been treated, coated, or even cleaned. This requires the most work to clean, but is by far the least expensive. Aluminum can also be bought in a variety of more refined finishes, requiring less cleaning but are more costly. It’s generally a good idea to buy aluminum (or any other metal you’re using) with the most raw finish available to ensure you’re not going to encounter any coatings or treatments that won’t hold the inkAID products. If you’re interested in purchasing aluminum that has been precoated, Booksmart Studios in Rochester, NY, offer precoated aluminum in a variety of thicknesses and colors/finishes. Please visit their website, www.booksmartstudio.com for more information. Copper and tin are also popular metals to print with using the inkAID products.

Q. What is the best way to thoroughly clean metal to ensure a uniform coating of inkAID?

A. We recommend the following steps to safely remove all surface dirt and oils that may prevent inkAID from adhering smoothly to the metal:

                        1. Wash the surface of the metal with warm water and while still wet,                             sprinkle some dishwasher powder (like Cascade) over the surface.

                        2. Scrub the surface and powder with a Mr. Clean magic eraser or other
                            non-abrasive cloth.

                        3. Rinse the surface of the metal well with warm water and dry it.

                        4. Finally, wipe the surface with isopropyl rubbing alcohol with a
                            non-abrasive cloth and let the metal air dry.

Once the metal is completely dry, you’re ready to coat. If you see any areas where the coating “crawls away” from the surface, you haven’t cleaned thoroughly enough. Stop and rewash the metal.

Q. Which inkAID product should I use to coat metal?

A. inkAID Clear Gloss Type II precoat was formulated especially for this use. It contains a small amount of adhesive that is usually enough to adhere the coating without an additional adhesive. Because the coating is clear, the surface of the metal will be visible underneath the coating, which is generally desirable. If you’d rather have a white surface, inkAID White Matte precoat can be used as well. Either way, use a foam brush to apply a layer of the coating, brushing in one direction. Let the coating dry completely and coat again, brushing in the other direction this time. You can also use a stainless steel coating rod or HLVP sprayer to coat the metal. inkAID Iridescent precoats are popular with metals, but to use these coatings you’ll need to put down a layer or two of inkAID Adhesive first. Please remember that these are only guidelines and you should always test your methods before committing to them.

Q. I tried printing on my coated metal - the ink layer doesn’t seem even and the surface sheen seems mottled. What happened?

A. If you haven’t a complete job cleaning the metal, the inkAID won’t coat evenly. Make sure you’ve cleaned the metal as thoroughly as possible and try recoating. Also, if the inkAID hasn’t been applied evenly, it will affect the surface sheen.

Q. When I print, it seems like the ink is puddling or curdling on the surface of the inkAID. What should I do?

A. Always make sure that you’re using a 1440 x 720 or higher resolution when printing onto any inkAID product. Using a higher resolution puts the ink down slower and keeps it dryer, preventing the ink from puddling or curdling on the surface of your print.

Q. What is a good postcoat to use to preserve the metallic finish of my piece?

A. A good choice is Krylon Crystal Clear Satin. It allows the color to glow like natural metal. Matte sprays tend to deaden or dull the color and gloss sprays will be shiny and reflective. The most natural look will come from 2 light coats of a satin spray.

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III. Canvas

Q. Can inkAID be applied to artist’s canvas?

A. Yes, all inkAID products are compatible with both raw and gessoed canvas. If you’d rather not coat your own canvas, inkAID also offers artist’s canvas precoated

with inkAID White Matte Precoat. These canvases come in a variety of sizes and weights; please visit our Products page for more information. Artists using canvas should be aware of the cartridge head clearance of their printers, as serious damage can be done to your printer if you try to feed media thicker than it can accommodate.

Q. How should I apply inkAID to canvas so that it doesn’t warp and buckle?

A. The best way to coat canvas to keep it completely flat is to mount the uncoated canvas on stretcher bars 6” wider in both directions than your final stretched canvas will be. You’ll lose those extra six inches when you trim and mount the printed piece). Apply a coat of gesso to the canvas. Once dry, apply two coats of whichever inkAID product you choose, allowing the surface to dry a full 24 hours between coats. Trim the canvas off the front surface of the stretcher bars after it’s completely dry, and be sure to adjust your printer cartridge head height before printing.

Q. Will I be able to paint acrylic or oil paint over a print on inkAID coated canvas?

A. If you’ve used inkAID White Matte precoat on your canvas, the inkjet print is waterproof and can be painted over with acrylic or oil paints. An inkjet print on canvas coated with a clear inkAID product is water soluble and may move with acrylic. Use a spray-on acrylic varnish to stabilize the surface before you try to add acrylics or oil paint.

Q. How should I store my canvas coated with inkAID?

A. Roll the canvas (surface facing out) around a 3-inch cardboard tube, then wrap paper around the canvas. Keep the canvas in a cool, dry, dark place until you’re ready to use it.

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IV. Fine Art/Handmade Papers

Q. Is inkAID compatible with any kind of paper?

A. Yes, all the inkAID products are compatible with any kind of paper, including fine art and handmade papers. Be sure that the paper you plan on coating isn’t already coated for inkjet printing, as it’s redundant and the two coatings probably aren’t compatible.

Q. Which inkAID products do you recommend using with fine art or handmade papers?

A. Generally, artists and photographers use the inkAID Clear Semi-Gloss precoat or Clear Gloss Precoat. inkAID White Matte precoat is occasionally used, but will cover up the color and texture of the paper, yielding a bright white background. Clear Gloss Type II precoat could be used, but it’s more expensive than the Clear Gloss or Semi-Gloss precoats, and most papers don’t require the adhesive included in the Type II, so it’s not necessary to spend the extra money. The inkAID Iridescent precoats are becoming extremely popular for artists and photographers printing on paper, because they allow the characteristics of the paper to shine through, while adding a touch of sheen and color.

Q. How should I apply inkAID to paper?

A. The easiest and most commonly used method is to apply inkAID with a black foam brush found at any hardware store. Lay your paper on a flat, easy to clean surface (sometimes it helps to tape the corners down), and pour a small amount of inkAID into a bowl. Dip the foam brush into coating and brush onto the paper, being sure to brush in a single direction. Allow the paper to dry completely, 4-5 hours (the drying process can be sped up using a hair dryer set on “cool”, but this will cause the paper to warp more severely). Once the paper is completely dry, apply a second coat, brushing in a perpendicular direction this time. Allow the paper to dry again. After the paper is dry, ensure that it lies completely flat (see question below), and you’re ready to print!

Q. My paper is warping and bending as it dries. How can I fix this?

A. This is a common problem, and fortunately has a pretty simple solution. The reason that the paper becomes wavy or warped as it dries has to do with the uneven absorption of inkAID. Especially in handmade paper, where fiber concentration differs throughout the sheet, the water in the inkAID coating isn’t absorbed evenly by the paper, and the result is that the paper warps as it dries. To prevent this from happening, hang the paper from a thin wire (using metal clips or clothespins) after coating, allowing gravity to pull down and keep it flat as it dries. You can also use secure metal clips to the bottom of the hanging paper to add some more weight. If the paper is still warped after it’s been coated twice and completely dried, you can press it flat underneath a heavy weight (like several large books) overnight; this should get rid of the last of the warps. It’s important that the paper lay completely flat before printing to avoid headstrikes by the ink cartridges.

Q. I don’t want to coat my own paper – do you offer precoated papers?

A. Yes – currently we offer three different precoated Japanese Washi papers – Unryu 55, Kozo 110, and Bizan 300. These papers are beautifully crafted from sustainably harvested mulberry plants, and each sheet of Bizan 300 is individually handmade. All of the papers are available in A4 and A3+ sizes, and the Unryu 55 is also available in a 44”x 15 meter roll. Please visit the Products page for more information.

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V. Fabric

Q. Can inkAID be used to precoat fabric for printing?

A. Yes – inkAID can be used to precoat fabric for a variety of purposes, including collage, banners, or stretched art. Your best choice is to use inkAID White Matte precoat, which is water resistant and can be machine washed. For best results, you should use a pigment-based ink for this application. Don’t use any inkAID Clear precoats, as they are water soluble and cannot be washed.

Q. What backing should I use to feed fabric through the printer?

A. A good method is to stretch the fabric on stretcher bars, coat with inkAID, dry, and trim. Once you’ve done all that, iron it into freezer paper and feed through your printer. Be sure that you’ve adjusted your printer cartridge head clearance to allow the fabric to feed through unobstructed.

Q. What is the best way to print on very thin fabrics, like silk?

A. Always be sure to use a relatively stiff backing, like freezer paper (or any other kind of paper, if the fabric won’t slide around on the surface too much), and perform a test run before committing to a large piece of fabric. Sometimes the pizza wheels on a printer can catch the fabric and gum up the entire operation – so proceed carefully!

Q. Do you know where I can get precoated fabric?

A. inkAID offers a precoated Olana Digital Fine Art Fabric – an excellent choice for convenience and quality. Please visit the Products page for more information about the fabric.

Q. How should I store my coated fabric?

A. Roll the fabric (surface facing out) around a 3-inch cardboard tube, then wrap paper around the fabric. Keep the fabric in a cool, dry, dark place until you’re ready to use it.

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D. Troubleshooting

Q. I see streaks in the inkAID after it has dried on my substrates. What should I do?

A. If you’re using a bristle brush, try switching to a foam brush; this should cut down significantly on the streaks you see. Be sure to apply two coats, brushing the second coat in a direction perpendicular to the first. If you’re still having problems, you could try diluting the inkAID with up to 10% distilled water for a smoother flow.

Q. Do you have suggestions for applying inkAID with an automotive paint sprayer?

A. If you’re using a sprayer, make sure it’s set to handle thicker, heavier materials, so you’ll be able to apply enough coating to handle 200 - 300% ink loading. Be sure that the coating is flowing and self leveling in the areas where you’ve completed spraying. You should be able to coat in one spraying pass if the sprayer is set to apply enough material through the orifice. An HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) Sprayer like the Campbell Hausfeld HV3000 is recommended. Good results have also been obtained using a Paasche VLS Airbrush with the No. 5 tip and 50lbs of pressure. Spray several light layers using the 7 ml (one large color cup) evenly on an 11”x 22” piece. inkAID products can be diluted with 10% distilled water to aid in spraying, if necessary.

Q. I’m printing on a nonporous surface and my images seem to have areas of wet ink and a speckle-pattern in areas of heavy ink, and the ink is slow to dry. Why is this happening, and what can I do?

A. Make sure you’re printing with the 1440 x 720 setting; the printer uses less ink and prints more slowly, giving the ink more time to dry between passes. When you use the clear inkAID products on a nonporous substrate, be sure to use the highest resolution possible – it gives the best results.

Q. How can I stop ink from puddling on an inkAID coated metal print?

A. When preparing aluminum or other metal surfaces, always make sure you use at least two coats of inkAID. The more inkAID you apply, the more coating surface you give the ink to hold onto.

Q. I’ve double coated a sheet of paper with inkAID White Matte Precoat, and after printing, the finish is interrupted by shiny areas where it appears the ink has been most heavily applied. Is there anything I can do to eliminate these shiny patches without sacrificing print quality.

A. Yes, there are a number of things you can try:

                        1. If you’re using an Epson printer, Epson Ultrachrome produces a photo
                           black ink and a matte black ink. Try switching sets.

                        2. Make sure you mix the precoats thoroughly before each use. The solids                             in inkAID precoats will settle to the bottom, resulting in an uneven coat.

                        3. In dark areas of a print, more ink is put down and it may be that all the                             ink cannot be absorbed. Try reducing the ink load to below 400% by                             using a RIP or lightening the darker areas of your images in Photoshop.

                        4. Don’t touch the precoated surface before use. Doing so can leave an oil                             residue that can affect print quality.

                        5. A post-coat of Matte Acrylic Varnish may eliminate the shiny areas.

Q. I am working on a piece of aluminum, and when I use the Gloss precoat over the Adhesive precoat, I occasionally get milky streaks that do not dry clear

A. Try using the inkAID Clear Gloss Type II, which has the adhesive built in, or apply only a very light coat of adhesive and always allow it to dry thoroughly (about 24 hours) before applying the Gloss precoat. If you’re still having problems, it may be that you’re unevenly applying either the adhesive or gloss precoat, or that the aluminum hasn’t been sufficiently cleaned. Consider using a sprayer, as described above.

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E. Resources

1. Books
There are a number of excellent books written about processes that utilize the inkAID products. Some of these include:

Digital Art Studio: Techniques for Combining Inkjet Printing with Traditional Art Materials by Karin Schminke, Bonny Piece Lhotka, and Dorothy Simpson Krause.

Digital Photo Art: Transform Your Images with Traditional & Contemporary Art Techniques by Theresa Airey.

301 Inkjet Tips and Techniques: An Essential Printing Resource for Photographers by Andrew Darlow.

2. Instructional DVD’s
We recommend these two DVD’s for exploring more creative ways to use inkAID. They explain groundbreaking processes step-by-step to create some really awesome work! Both DVDs are available for purchase on the inkAID website.

Beyond the Digital Print, by Mary Taylor.You'll see 4 techniques for preparing custom substrates using both traditional artist’s materials and more bold materials. The DVD includes a Resource Booklet (in pdf format viewable on computer) with each technique briefly explained with a materials list. Each technique demonstrates ways to use inkAID to prepare custom surfaces for inkjet printing.

Inkjet Transfer Techniques- Gelatin and Gel Transfer Processes for Alternative Photography and Fine Art, by Bonny Lhotka, Digital Art Studio Seminars. 120 minutes. Learn 8 new processes for transferring inkjet prints to other surfaces using gelatin, gels, and fresco gelatin. All processes are suitable for desktop and wide format printers using pigment inks. This seminar series is for all artists and photographers looking for alternative processes for expanding on how to express their own creative voice. Processes covered require the use of inkjet media like the DASS™ Transfer Film or other media with a water soluble coating that will release the image.

3. Online Forum - The inkAID Yahoo group hosts a lively discussion, with dozens of artists and photographers covering a wide range of expertise sharing their knowledge and discussing processes and problems involved with inkAID applications. There are several other great online artistic/photographic forums that sometimes discuss inkAID.

4. Youtube.com clips
Right now there are four youtube.com clips focused around inkAID. Visit youtube.com and type “inkAID” into the search box to draw up these clips. They’re great demonstrations about how to coat your own substrates, perform transfers, and more!_