D. FAQ – Troubleshooting
Q. I see streaks in the inkAID after it has dried on my substrates. What should I do?
A. If you’re using a bristle brush, try switching to a foam brush; this should cut down significantly on the streaks you see. Be sure to apply two coats, brushing the second coat in a direction perpendicular to the first. If you’re still having problems, you could try diluting the inkAID with up to 10% distilled water for a smoother flow.
Q. Do you have suggestions for applying inkAID with an automotive paint sprayer?
A. If you’re using a sprayer, make sure it’s set to handle thicker, heavier materials, so you’ll be able to apply enough coating to handle 200 – 300% ink loading. Be sure that the coating is flowing and self leveling in the areas where you’ve completed spraying. You should be able to coat in one spraying pass if the sprayer is set to apply enough material through the orifice. An HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) Sprayer like the Campbell Hausfeld HV3000 is recommended. Good results have also been obtained using a Paasche VLS Airbrush with the No. 5 tip and 50lbs of pressure. Spray several light layers using the 7 ml (one large color cup) evenly on an 11”x 22” piece. inkAID products can be diluted with 10% distilled water to aid in spraying, if necessary.
Q. I’m printing on a nonporous surface and my images seem to have areas of wet ink and a speckle-pattern in areas of heavy ink, and the ink is slow to dry. Why is this happening, and what can I do?
A. Make sure you’re printing with the 1440 x 720 setting; the printer uses less ink and prints more slowly, giving the ink more time to dry between passes. When you use the clear inkAID products on a nonporous substrate, be sure to use the highest resolution possible – it gives the best results.
Q. How can I stop ink from puddling on an inkAID coated metal print?
A. When preparing aluminum or other metal surfaces, always make sure you use at least two coats of inkAID. The more inkAID you apply, the more coating surface you give the ink to hold onto.
Q. I’ve double coated a sheet of paper with inkAID White Matte Precoat, and after printing, the finish is interrupted by shiny areas where it appears the ink has been most heavily applied. Is there anything I can do to eliminate these shiny patches without sacrificing print quality.
A. Yes, there are a number of things you can try:
- If you’re using an Epson printer, Epson Ultrachrome produces a photo black ink and a matte black ink. Try switching sets.
- Make sure you mix the precoats thoroughly before each use. The solids in inkAID precoats will settle to the bottom, resulting in an uneven coat.
- In dark areas of a print, more ink is put down and it may be that all the ink cannot be absorbed. Try reducing the ink load to below 400% by using a RIP or lightening the darker areas of your images in Photoshop.
- Don’t touch the precoated surface before use. Doing so can leave an oil residue that can affect print quality.
- A post-coat of Matte Acrylic Varnish may eliminate the shiny areas.
Q. I am working on a piece of aluminum, and when I use the Gloss precoat over the Adhesive precoat, I occasionally get milky streaks that do not dry clear
A. Try using the inkAID Clear Gloss Type II, which has the adhesive built in, or apply only a very light coat of adhesive and always allow it to dry thoroughly (about 24 hours) before applying the Gloss precoat. If you’re still having problems, it may be that you’re unevenly applying either the adhesive or gloss precoat, or that the aluminum hasn’t been sufficiently cleaned. Consider using a sprayer, as described above.
