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inkAID™

At the intersection of art and technology

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C. FAQ – Application

Categories

  1. Overview
  2. Compatibility
  3. Application
    1. General
    2. Metal
    3. Canvas
    4. Fine Art/Handmade Papers
    5. Fabric
  4. Troubleshooting

I. General

Q. How do I apply inkAID?
A. The most common way to apply inkAID coatings is by using a regular foam or good quality bristle brush. A foam brush will apply the coating evenly without leaving streaks while a bristle brush allows the inclusion of brush strokes to the piece. It is important to apply a sufficient amount of wet coating to the substrate for good printability. Always perform a few "test applications" on new substrates to determine the optimum amount of coating required. It is generally recommend to apply two coats, with the second coat applied perpendicular to the first while still wet. Experienced used often apply different inkAID coatings over the first lay of dried coating to enhance the piece. After the final coat let the substrate dry completely. Papers normally swell and curl slightly so be sure to flatten your substrate before printing (see below for suggestions on flattening). Other ways to apply inkAID are with a stainless steel coating rod, or by spraying. Spray equipment can include an HVLP (high volume, low pressure) sprayer or a Paasche VLS Airbrush. Spraying will, however, introduce small bubbles in the coating of which most will dissipate upon drying. It is not recommend that inkAID coatings be diluted with water, but if this is done do not dilute by more than 5% with distilled water to aid in spraying.
Q. How should I clean up after using inkAID?
A. All inkAID products are water soluble and can be cleaned off of brushes and hands, BEFORE THEY DRY, using warm water. This is especially important with inkAID White Matte, inkAID Translucent Gloss, and inkAID Adhesive Primer as these are water resistant coatings upon drying. 
Q. How can I go about making my own substrates?
A. Because uses for inkAID coatings are so varied, there’s no single answer to this question. Creating your own substrate can be as simple as coating a piece of paper, creating an acrylic “skin” to print on and transfer to another surface, or coating aluminum and copper. Your own creativity will be your only limitation! For ideas, "Resources" and "Video" sections of the website. 
Q. How can I flatten and smooth out a porous substrate such as paper after coating with inkAID?
A. The normal reaction of porous substrates, which usually contain material like cellulose fiber, is to absorb water and swell. This will cause the substrate to moderately buckle and curl upon drying. To reduce the amount of curl, the substrate can be hung from a thin wire (using metal clips or clothespins) after coating, allowing gravity to pull down and remain flat as it dries. Metal clips can be placed to the bottom of the hanging substrate to add additional weight. If the substrate is still curled after drying, it can be pressed flat using several methods. One is to place it between two flat pieces of material such as plexiglas and loading a heavy weight upon it overnight or up to two or three days. Another method is to place the substrate between several pieces of parchement or wax paper and using a moderately hot iron to remove the curl. Yet another method, if you have the equipment available, is to press the substrate flat in a heat press.
Q. Can I apply inkAID on top of a painting and print on it?
A. Certainly! You can use inkAID over any water-based media, but be advised that it may require an isolation coat first if the paint is water soluble. We do not recommend using inkAID on top of oil or other solvent based media.
Q. What do I need to know about post-coating images made using inkAID?
A. Post-coating is generally recommended to protect your finished images from water damage, fading, airborne contaminants, and fingerprints; however, different coatings have different post-coating requirements. If you’ve used the inkAID™ Clear Semi-Gloss, Clear Gloss, Clear Gloss Type II, or Iridescent precoats, a water-based product might move the inks around, so you’ll need to use a solvent-based topcoat like Krylon Crystal Clear spray or Golden MSA Varnish. inkAID White Matte precoat contains pigments and can be damaged by the solvents found in products like Golden MSA Varnish and Krylon Crystal Clear by dissolving the coating and causing the appearance of streaks or dust, which sometimes may not appear for months afterward. To avoid this use water based products like Golden Polymer Varnish or ClearShield Type C liquid laminate as a post-coat.